Strolling Through Time: Brisbane’s Historic Heartbeat Walk
Nestled along the serpentine curves of the Brisbane River, the city of Brisbane in the late 19th century was a burgeoning colonial outpost on the edge of the modern world. With the gold rush having breathed life into its streets and rural industry bolstering its economy, Brisbane was a city in the throes of transformation. Grand sandstone edifices rose amidst the subtropical greenery, horse-drawn trams clattered along its burgeoning streets, and the hum of commerce mingled with tales of opportunity and adventure. As the young city reached out for its place on the global stage, its architecture and culture began to mirror the intricate dance of tradition and progress. Many of these impressive buildings remain and this simple self guided walk of Brisbane City takes you past a few of the finest examples.
Old Customs House
399 Queen Street, Brisbane
Our walk commences at the impressive Old Customs House. Stand on the Queen Street side and admire the grand edifice erected in the 1880s during a period when Brisbane was growing in importance as a port city.
Constructed in the Classical architectural style, it’s adorned with Corinthian columns, and its deep colonnades and prominent copper dome make it a signature building of Brisbane’s riverfront.
Now used by the University of Queensland as offices, lecture areas and events centre, you can enter the building and imagine a bustling government office.
Enjoy a coffee or glass of sparkling Australian wine at the riverfront bar, which gives you a magnificent view of the impressive Storey Bridge. Then head South West “up” Queen Street, stopping at the corner of Queen and Eagle Street to admire the small but well made Mooney Memorial Fountain erected in memorial to James Mooney, a volunteer fireman who lost his life while fighting a fire in Queen Street in March 1877.
NAB Building
308 Queen Street
Your next stop is the building which formally housed the National Australia Bank. Now another of the University of Queensland’s heritage buildings, its edifice is an embodiment of Brisbane’s transition through different architectural phases.
This large masonry building built like many other fine buildings of its time, of Queensland sandstone, was constructed 1881–1885 as the new Head Office for the successful and influential Queensland National Bank.
The main banking chamber is not technically open to the public, however it now contains a grand room open to alumni of UQ and you can certainly step through the fine iron doors to quickly admire the recently restored interior.
GPO (General Post Office)
261 Queen Street, Brisbane
continuing along Queen Street, but on the opposite side of the road from the Bank building, you’ll find the Renaissance style GPO, constructed in the 1870s. With its sandstone walls and an imposing clock tower emphasizing its importance as a communication hub in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, its still a working post office.
Duck down the simply named Post Office Lane (right side of the building as you face it) and cross the road, to reach one of two of Brisbane’s cathederals.
St. Stephen’s Cathedral
249 Elizabeth Street, Brisbane
A landmark of Gothic Revival architecture, St Stephen’s is the city’s Roman Catholic Cathederal. It was completed in stages from the 1850s to the early 20th century. The cathedral’s spires, lancet windows, and intricate stonework highlight the European architectural influences of the period.
Inside note both the traditional features and the very un-traditional Christ (with no beard and not dead) above the altar. Visitors of all faiths are welcome but please remember to be respectful, particularly if a service is in progress.
Next door, St Stephen’s Chapel (also known as Old St Stephen’s Church) is well worth a visit if open. The chapel was designed by English architect Augustus Puginand and built between 1847 and 1850. The first Mass was celebrated in the completed building on 12 May 1850. This building, the oldest Catholic church in Queensland, contains a particularly fine statue of St Mary of the Cross, Australia’s first Saint.
Now return to Queen Street, and continue your journey.
MacArthur Chambers
201 Edward Street, Brisbane
While also made of fine stone but not of the colonial era, on the courner of Queen and Edward, you will find a classic example of Interwar Art Deco design. MacArthur Chambers constructed between 1931 and 1934 as the Queensland headquarters of an insurance company, and became famous during WWII when General Douglas MacArthur used it as his headquarters.
Near this location, the infamous 1942 “Battle of Brisbane” occurred, a two-night riot between U.S. military personnel and Australian servicemen and civilians. This riot was rooted in tensions between the two groups, resulting in several injuries and even death.
The building now contains a modern shopping mall with many exclusive shops and resteraunts.
Be sure to take note of the statues above the main entrance on Queen Street carved from Sicilian marble. The tableau illustrates the motto of the insurance company that built the building, Amicus certus in re incerta (a certain friend in uncertain times) and depicts an erect female figure, with a cornucopia by her right side, holding the palm of victory in her left hand.
Now cross the road to the main shopping area of Brisbane, the Queen Street Mall.
Queen Street Mall
Established in the 1980s as a pedestrian mall, this section of Brisbane’s main street includes both historic buildings and newer, modernist designs. Here you will find shops, resteraunts and fast food outlets.
People watching on the Mall is a timed honoured tradition in Brisbane, but on this walk we won’t linger, continuing “up” towards the river.
Treasury Casino
30 William Street, Brisbane
At the top of the Mall, you’ll find a striking building constructed in the 19th century to serve as the government’s treasury department. The French Renaissance design, with its red brick and sandstone facade, arched windows, and grand colonnades, mirrors the opulence and grandeur of Brisbane’s colonial past.
Inside be sure to note the timber handrails, ornamental cast iron balustrades and stair landings and the cast-iron balconies which run around the courtyard on every level. Rooms contain cast-iron wall ventilators, marble fireplaces and plaster ceiling roses and those facing the courtyard have french doors opening onto these balconies.
The building now houses a Casino and a couple of decent restaurants.
Turning left at the top of the Mall, you’ll now leave Queen Street and head towards the Parliamentary precinct.
Parliament House
Cnr George and Alice Streets, Brisbane
Built in the 1860s, this landmark, designed in the Classic Revival style, has witnessed numerous political events. Throughout the Bjelke-Petersen era (1968–1987), the grounds of the Parliament saw a series of protests and demonstrations, particularly against the government’s hardline approach to civil liberties and political demonstrations. Sir Joh Bjelke-Petersen’s tenure as Premier was controversial, marked by clashes with activists and the suppression of protests.
Brisbane’s history is intertwined with its architecture, reflecting the city’s growth from a colonial outpost to a bustling metropolis. As you walk this route, you’re retracing the footsteps of history, from the early settlers and their grand designs to the modern populace and their contemporary sensibilities.
